| Spotlight 
                      on...Cartagena, Colombia 
 A second home in 
                      the Caribbean for $60,000
 by Lee Harrison
 “Colombia? 
                      Are you crazy? They hate Americans, and if you ever have 
                      to fly into Bogotá, the murder rate is one in 100.” 
                       “Are 
                      you ignoring the government warnings? I’ll be reporting 
                      you to the proper authorities in the State Department!” 
                       “What 
                      about the drug lords?”  Stereotypes: 
                      they’re at the root of many a good property deal. 
                      If it weren’t for negative stereotypes, the investors 
                      who bought beachfronts lots in Nicaragua for less than $30,000 
                      would have never reaped such handsome returns.  But 
                      most stereotypes indeed have some factual basis, and Colombia 
                      is no exception. While it may not be the most dangerous 
                      place in Latin America, it’s by no means the safest, 
                      either. The political kidnappings and violence are real, 
                      and you could end up in genuine danger if you’re not 
                      careful about where you travel.  This 
                      is one reason why many savvy property buyers have set their 
                      sights on Cartagena, the centerpiece of Colombia’s 
                      Caribbean coast. We heard from a number of readers who are 
                      scouting there, have invested there, and even two who are 
                      currently building a home in Colombia’s famous walled 
                      city. Not to mention quite a few who are already in residence. 
                       Why 
                      Cartagena? Let’s start with those stereotypes.  According 
                      to the U.S. State Department, “During the past 
                      four years, kidnapping and other violent crimes have decreased 
                      markedly in most urban areas, including Bogotá, Medellin, 
                      Barranquilla, and Cartagena.” In fact, Cartagena 
                      ranks among the safest of Colombia’s 32 department 
                      capitals. The homicide rate is better than Panama City, 
                      Caracas, or Brasilia…and also better than Memphis, 
                      Atlanta, Cincinnati, and Kansas City, Mo., according to 
                      statistics released by the FBI in September 2007.  As 
                      to the statement that “they hate Americans,” 
                      I strongly disagree. (I did not hear this claim from anyone 
                      who had actually been to Colombia.) I found the Colombian 
                      people to be friendly, open, and welcoming, from Cartagena 
                      in the north all the way down to Pasto in the south.  Drug 
                      lords? Cartagena has never been known as a center for the 
                      Colombian drug trade. While I suppose you could find drugs 
                      if you went looking, drugs, drug dealers, and “drug 
                      lords” won’t be an issue for expats or investors. 
                       Simply 
                      put, Cartagena is a good place to live and invest…which 
                      is why so many are doing just that.  Located 
                      2.5 hours from Miami, Fla., Cartagena and its surrounding 
                      areas is not a “newly discovered” market. On 
                      the contrary, this famous Caribbean port and its surrounding 
                      beaches have been a popular destination for many years among 
                      South Americans and Europeans. As a UNESCO 
                      World Heritage site and one of the world’s few remaining 
                      walled cities, it’s no surprise that property prices 
                      have been high for a while, especially given the magnificent 
                      condition of the colonial buildings.  You 
                      may recall that prices shot up about 50% in 2006, due to 
                      a dwindling inventory of properties inside the wall. In 
                      2007, we’ve seen a similar performance, with properties 
                      in the city going up by 38% on a cost-per-square-foot basis. 
                       Another 
                      impressive gain for a single year.  Cartagena 
                      is not the place to come if you’re looking for cheap 
                      real estate, although it’s not bad when compared with 
                      most of the Caribbean or to nearby Panama City. It is a 
                      place worthy of your scrutiny if you’re looking for 
                      a second home in the Caribbean or are considering a property 
                      investment.  And 
                      despite the gains over the last few years, there are still 
                      some reasonably priced properties on the market.  The 
                      Cartagena market is divided into two major sub-markets: 
                      the city of Cartagena proper, and the adjoining beach areas 
                      a few minutes away. Within the city, there are three major 
                      sectors: Centro, San Diego, and Getsemaní. 
                      Of these, Centro and San Diego lie within the wall, while 
                      Getsemaní is just outside. At the beaches, you’ll 
                      find Laguito, Castillogrande, and Bocagrande. 
                       Centro 
                      is the heart of the walled city itself. It’s the best-preserved 
                      part of Cartagena, and has the largest number of tourist 
                      attractions and the highest tourist traffic. San Diego adjoins 
                      Centro inside the wall. It too has luxury hotels and fine 
                      dining, but it has more of a bohemian feel in some areas, 
                      with a residential flavor in others. Centro and San Diego 
                      make up a colonial environment that’s as beautiful 
                      as any you’ll see in Latin America.  Centro 
                      and San Diego are the prime sectors for real estate in the 
                      region, with the most rapidly increasing prices and sought-after 
                      properties. This is mostly because it’s a walled city, 
                      and the properties are therefore a finite commodity, with 
                      no room to expand.  The 
                      low-end entry point in the Centro market is represented 
                      by an apartment I saw situated right on the Santo Domingo 
                      square, which is the heart and center of the old city, central 
                      to the cafés, bars, restaurants, and boutiques. It 
                      was small (about 550 square feet), and the asking price 
                      was $92,500. This property was in great condition.  In 
                      San Diego, there’s a beautifully restored colonial 
                      home on offer with two bedrooms, three bathrooms, a terrace, 
                      and air conditioning. At 1,400 square feet, the asking price 
                      is $249,750 at today’s exchange rates. The property 
                      comes furnished, and I believe this is a great value for 
                      this area. Contact Paul Juan (see below) 
                      for details.  Also 
                      in San Diego, I came across a luxury condo project that’s 
                      selling pre-construction. The builder is offering more than 
                      a dozen floor plans to choose from starting at $269,000. 
                      Building is underway, and final payment is not due until 
                      construction is completed in October 2008.  Getsemaní 
                      (pronounced “get seh mah NEE”) is a neighborhood 
                      within the city but outside the wall, and was originally 
                      the sector for workers who made their living servicing the 
                      upper classes inside the wall. It is a colonial sector still 
                      in its unrestored form, and many streets are a combination 
                      of fixed-up homes interspersed with those still awaiting 
                      the paintbrush. With few tourists, it doesn’t yet 
                      have the secure feeling of the neighborhoods inside the 
                      wall. About 20% of this sector is restored to the level 
                      of Centro, including a pleasant waterfront area.  On 
                      a recent property scout, I found a house of 2,367 square 
                      feet, with three bedrooms and two bathrooms, in one of the 
                      areas that’s being restored. The asking price is about 
                      $275,000, and you can contact the owner directly at tuiran2932@hotmail.com. 
                      This is a good price in Getsemaní, the sector where 
                      there’s still plenty of room for appreciation.  If 
                      you’re looking to remodel, the fixer-uppers in this 
                      neighborhood start at less than $100,000—about half 
                      of what the same house would go for in Centro or San Diego. 
                       The 
                      beach resorts of Cartagena are located a few minutes away 
                      from the city proper. While the gleaming highrises are a 
                      world apart from the colonial city itself, the prices are 
                      in fact driven by Cartagena’s districts within the 
                      wall.  El 
                      Laguito (“lahg EE toh”) is the most active beachside 
                      tourist destination in the region, and the beaches are busy 
                      all year, even in the low season. There are restaurants 
                      and sidewalk cafés, and the beaches are alive with 
                      vendors selling everything imaginable, which adds to the 
                      sector’s party atmosphere. The properties in Laguito 
                      tend to be smaller than in other sectors and are often designed 
                      for short-term rentals, often renting by the day or week. 
                       Realtor 
                      Paul 
                      Juan has a one-bedroom, one-bathroom apartment 
                      on the 13th floor of a modern building with a pool near 
                      the Hilton. The view of the bay is spectacular, and the 
                      asking price is a negotiable $59,900, with condo fees of 
                      $71 per month.  A 
                      two-bedroom, two-bathroom apartment—also with an excellent 
                      view—will set you back $91,000—and it comes 
                      furnished. For more information, e-mail info@CartagenaApartments.com. 
                       Castillogrande 
                      (“cah stee yo GRAN deh”) is a high-end residential 
                      haven in the midst of all the tourism. Even though it is 
                      within walking distance from Laguito, the beaches here are 
                      generally quiet, without vendors or many tourists. The streets 
                      are tree-lined and well kept, with large, expensive homes 
                      and tasteful highrises. Apartments and houses here are large 
                      and more geared to year-round living. This is the area’s 
                      exclusive, high-rent district.  One 
                      of the better pre-construction deals I saw was in the waterfront 
                      Malibu building, where you can buy an apartment of 1,515 
                      square feet with three bedrooms, four bathrooms, a maid’s 
                      suite (one bedroom and one bathroom), and a balcony. This 
                      luxury building even has its own power generator. An apartment 
                      on the 16th floor will cost $315,500.  Bocagrande 
                      is the beach area nearest the walled city, and it has two 
                      very different characters. On the Caribbean side, it is 
                      geared toward the tourist trade, and has much of the atmosphere 
                      of Laguito. Its beaches are quietest on the end nearest 
                      the city (the northeast end), and they tend to get busier 
                      as you approach Laguito.  The 
                      bay side of Bocagrande is a different world, with high-end 
                      condos in gleaming new highrises. It has a luxury residential 
                      character similar to that of Castillogrande, and similar 
                      property prices.  Less 
                      than 25% of the visitors to Cartagena are international 
                      visitors, with the remainder being Colombians…so far, 
                      few North Americans. And once North American attention wanders 
                      from the comparatively high prices in Panama, this market 
                      could expand even faster.  SIDEBAR 
                       
                        | Who 
                            to contact in Cartagena |   
                        |  
                            AttorneyCori 
                            Ltd. (Ricardo Velez B), Edificio Banco 
                            Popular, office 1302, Cartagena; tel. (57)5664-5071; 
                            cell: (57)310-657-5501; e-mail: misioncol3@hotmail.com.
 Real 
                          Estate 
                           
                          CasasColoniales Ltd. (Marcela Carvajales), 
                          tel. (57)313-532-2270; e-mail: marcecarvajales@hotmail.com.
 Paul 
                            Juan Inmuebles (Paul Juan), Edificio 
                            Playa Mar, apto 603, Laguito; tel. (57)5665-0515; 
                            cell: (57)311-660-2756; e-mail: paul@cartagenainmuebles.com; 
                            website: www.cartagenainmuebles.com. 
                            Paul and his partner—longtime U.S. expat Jim 
                            Bone—are a wealth of information on immigration, 
                            the property purchase process, among other practical 
                            issues.  Juan 
                            Francisco Chavarriaga, Laguito Calle 
                            1ra, 1-70, Laguito, tel. (57)5665-0907; cell: (57)315-743-1939; 
                            e-mail: ventas@inmobiliariaJyG.com; 
                            website: www.inmobiliariaJyG.com. 
                            Juan Francisco gets the prize for the most efficient 
                            viewing of a wide variety of real estate. He does 
                            not speak English, so if you don’t speak basic 
                            “real estate Spanish,” I’d suggest 
                            making an appointment with his son, Juan José. 
                             Gómez 
                            Pombo Inmobiliaria (Lucy Gómez), Plaza 
                            de la Aduana, Calle Cabral Piso 2, #32-10; tel. (57)5664-3697; 
                            cell: (57)315-731-6035. Located in the walled 
                            city, they have the area’s best selection of 
                            in-town properties. |  |