Because the Pan-American Highway grinds to a
halt just past Panama City, there is no road
access between North and South America. The
would-be traveller has 3 options: flying, which
will cost about $US160, sailing, or trekking
through the Darien Gap. Since the Gap has become
increasingly dangerous due to guerrilla activity
and smuggling, the Darien option is not for
the faint-hearted. To sail, on the other hand,
is not only safer and more comfortable, it is
in some ways more economical than flying.
In the late nineties there was a passenger ferry
service - the Crucero Express - between Cartagena
and Colon that proved to be short-lived. But
it is still possible to hitch a lift o­n
a cargo ship or pleasure boat. By asking around
the two main yacht clubs in Panama, in Colon
and Panama City, you might be able to get a
lift. Some skippers charge for the trip; others
give free passage in exchange for working aboard;
while a precious few actually pay the crew for
their time and labours. The latter category
usually apply o­nly to experienced sailors.
You
canconsiderably increase your chances of hitching
a lift by pinning a flyer at the notice-boards
at either club. A few words about yourself,
emphasising any foreign language, mechanical
or cooking skills, and a photograph often boost
your chances. An email or telephone contact
number is essential. Another good tactic is
to make photocopies of your notice and spend
a full day at either club, handing the notices
to every boat owner you meet. Often, if you
make informal contact with the owners, they
might recommend you to another o­n the
basis of your friendly first meeting.
Panamanian
law dictates that every boat, no matter how
small, must have four "linehandlers" in addition
to the Captain, when it makes a crossing of
the Panama Canal. Offering your services as
an unpaid linehandler is another way to acquaint
with the skippers, who later o­n may
be sailing to Cartagena. It is also a way to
sample the boat and life o­n board in
safe, calm conditions: many small craft take
two days to do the crossing, anchoring at night
in Lake Gatun. Be aware that there is keen competition
for these linehandling jobs from the locals,
who make a living charging $50 a day for the
work, and who will rip down your notice from
the noticeboard as soon as no-one is looking.
The yachts you will be seeking will be Caribbean-bound,
so it makes sense to consider this option o­nly
in Panama City.
With
the increasing numbers of backpackers seeking
this route, you still might be in for a long
wait for a lift. In 1999 I met a Frenchman who
had been waiting for 3 months. His somewhat
scruffy and unkempt appearance probably hindered
his chances, since four friends and myself were
able to get a berth after o­nly a few
days of asking.
Another option is with a cargo ship. They leave
from Coco-Solo wharf near Colon. Some of these
boats go o­nly a short way into Colombia,
others go all the way to Guajira, where they
drop off their cargo of contraband whiskey,
cigarettes or electronic appliances. Not many
are destined for Cartagena, and the price the
captains ask is often close to the same as the
airfare. You will need to clear immigration,
and often they will ask to see a Paz y Salvo,
a certificate from the Panamanian government
stating that you are a person not leaving behind
any unpaid debts or dependants. The certificate
is quite easily and cheaply obtained in Panama
City, though you will need to be early to avoid
the queues. The cargo ship option is often the
best o­ne for motorcyclists, since Captains
of sailboats are very unlikely to want a heavy
item like a bike working its way loose in their
fibreglass-hulled yachts, even if you offer
to dis-assemble it. Cargo boats also ply the
Pacific coast from Panama City to a number of
ports in Colombia and Ecuador. The boats come
in a range of shapes and sizes, steel-hulled
and wooden, and some appear decidedly un-seaworthy.
Beware!
Yet
another option is to use the "lanchas". These
are coast-hugging speedboats that hop their
way down the coast stopping at each village
along the way. Since you will need to take several
different lanchas, and haggle a price
with all of them, this is usually the most expensive
option. It is also the most uncomfortable and
slowest: imagine sitting for hours and hours
in the sun and sea-spray getting a sore backside
from the hull slapping the waves o­nly
to arrive at dusk in a village with no electricity
and where a night in a hammock in a mosquito-infested
hut costs US$30, o­nly to discover that
the next lancha won't be leaving
for several days.
There
are some 30ft sailboats which do take paying
customers o­n sailing trips between
the two countries. All-inclusive costs including
a stopover at the San Blas Islands, run to $200,
or more if you want to stay longer. Their service
is not always available, especialy around August,
when they are booked out, so it is best to ask
at Colon's yacht club or in El Porvenir.
![](san_blas2.jpg)
Most yachts stop at Isla Grande, inhabited by
Creoles, or the San Blas Islands o­n
the way. Here you will see absolutely unspoilt
tropical reefs and islands, inhabited by the
friendly Kuna Indians. The main town, El Porvenir,
has an airport and hotel. This is where the
Captain usually gets his zarpe validated
and you officially leave the country.
Of course, the reverse of all the above is also
possible, not o­nly from Cartagena to
Panama, but to many other destinations in the
Caribbean. In Cartagena, the place to pin your
notice and ask around is Club Nautico in Manga.
Several things are worth bearing in mind for
those who have never sailed before. By law,
o­nce you have signed o­n to
a boat as either crew or passenger, the Captain
retains custody of your passport. The Captain
has the legal authority of a policeman o­nce
you leave port. Some sea-sickness pills, sunglasses
and waterproof sun lotion are essential, as
is some reading material and perhaps a fishing
line. An email to your next-of-kin advising
the skipper's and boat's name
and expected place and time of arrival would
be a good idea. It is not safe to anchor outside
Cartagena's main harbour: armed theft
by poor fisherman of outbards, anchors and radio
gear has been reported in the local newspapers
recently. And don't cut your schedule
too fine: your arrival is at the mercy of the
winds, tides, mechanical breakdowns, and immigration
officers. And you might just fall in love with
the beautiful San Blas Archipelago enough to
want to stay longer.
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written by Glen David Short, a freelance writer
based in Cartagena. His new adventure travelogue,
`An Odd Odyssey: California to Colombia
by bus and boat has just been published
by Trafford Publishing. Check out the accompanying
Odd Odyssey colour
slideshow. To read an excerpt from that
book, entitled "Death and Thievery on Isla Grande"
detailing part of the voyage from Panama to
Cartagena, click here.
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B A C K -
Text
and Photos Copyright 2005 Glen David Short |