Sailors
and aficionados of sailing ships visiting Cartagena
should take the time to visit the tall ship
Gloria,
usually moored just a few minute's walk from
Cartagena's historic Centro district.
The Gloria is the official flagship and
sail-training ship of the Colombian Navy, and
her home port is Cartagena.
Purpose-built in 1968 as a sail-training ship
in the Celeya shipyard in Spain, the Gloria
is over 56 meters (257ft) long - one of the
biggest tall ships still afloat. She is steel-hulled,
but there is plenty of polished wood and brass
and her four masts and 23 sails give her an
appearance of being even older than she is (every
step on the ship has the name Gloria
embedded in the solid brass escutcheon scuff-plates).
Her figurehead, coated in glittering gold-leaf,
is called Maria Salud, reputedly after the sculptor's
daughter.
The Gloria has a full crew of 176, of
whom up to 120 can be cadets. Our guide told
us the last voyage, completed just a few months
previously, was an anticlockwise circumnavigation
of the South American continent via the Panama
Canal and the Strait of Magellan; on that occasion
the Gloria carried 6 female cadets.
Although from the outside the Gloria
appears to be somewhat outdated, once inside
the guest will be amazed. The Gloria
can motor under her own power with her MAN diesel
engine if so required. Computer monitors and
electronic navigation instruments are used in
the steering room, and air-conditioned coolness
is but one surprise awaiting visitors to the
officer's mess at the rear. Around the beautifully
polished wooden bar, set into glass display
cabinets like museum exhibits, are scores of
pre-Colombian gold and ceramic artefacts. Since
the ship is often invited to Tall Ship regattas
around the world, the Colombian Government uses
the ship to showcase its history to the foreign
dignitaries who step aboard.
To visit the Gloria is quite easy. When
she is in port her tall masts are visible from
just about anywhere around the Bay of Cartagena,
Manga, or Bocagrande. You can get there by taxi,
bus or by walking about ten minutes. Walking
from the clocktower towards Bocagrande, keep
to the left-hand side of the road, past the
kiosks that sell fruit juice, past the old pirate
ship, past the gas station, Naval Hospital,
and when you come to a building called Seguros
Bolivar, you're there. The entrance to Colombia's
Atlantic Fleet is opposite the oversize steel
statue of the blackbird. Armed soldiers in full
battle fatigues will direct you to the visitors
gate where you must produce some ID, which will
be exchanged for a pass in the form of an electronic
card. A further short walk will bring you past
some submarines, and some vessels painted in
green camouflage: these are boats that are used
in the riverways of Colombia, and they often
come under attack from the guerrilla insurgents
in these areas. When you see some grey ships,(
vessels sourced in the USA - the original names
can still be seen under the paint on some of
them) you are almost at the Gloria which
is open to the public form 9am to 6pm. A Spanish-speaking
guide will accompany you once aboard, and with
a bit of luck you might get to meet Captain
David Moreno, or better still, Morgan, the Gloria's
friendly Labrador mascot.
Glen David Short is a freelance writer
based in Cartagena. His new adventure travelogue,
`An Odd Odyssey: California to Colombia
by bus and boat' has just been published
by Trafford Publishing.
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B A C K -
Text
and Photos Copyright 2005 Glen David Short
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